Winter Time in Amsterdam!

Good day to you! I hope that you're week has been eventful and full of joy.

This last week I had the pleasure of hanging out with my good friends Folkert and Else in a city that has a rich cultural past and an alluring tourist scene as well. I'm talking about the beautiful city of Amsterdam.

In this week's blog, I will be telling you some stories about the following:

• Seeing my first ever European soccer match
• Blokarting on the beach (and getting a face full of sand)
• Eating pancakes for dinner
• Eating raw meat for a snack
• Eating ALL the seasonal treats all the time
• Eating, eating, eating

Ok, contrary to what you might think, this blog won't be ALL about food but it would be remiss of me if I left out the amazing local fare I had while I was visiting Amsterdam.

Good Friends Make the Difference

Before we get started, I want to tell you a quick story about my friends Folkert and Else who live in Amsterdam.  They are both Dutch natives and I first met Folkert over a decade ago while playing online video games.  He and I played the same game on the same server and got to know each other through the gaming community.  As luck would have it, my sister, Jen was studying abroad in the Netherlands so we went on a family vacation to Amsterdam and I got to meet Folkert in the flesh!

He showed my siblings and I around to some local bars so we wouldn't get caught in the tourist traps and it's where my famous line, "Zes la chouffe alsjeblieft" (six la chouffe please) came from that my siblings remember so fondly.  Anyway, we spent some time together that trip and it was a wonderful experience.

About 5 years later, I was fortunate enough to be able to go back to Amsterdam on my first European trip and Folkert and Else showed myself and my buddy Sean a wonderful time in the city!

Fast forward another 4 years and Folkert and Else embarked on a 3 week road trip through the states that ended in Denver.  I showed them the same hospitality they had shown me including taking them to a speakeasy (even though explaining why alcohol was banned to Europeans was quite silly) and showing them some of our local food and beer.

I told them about my upcoming European adventure and they told me I should come pop by Amsterdam again.  I gladly obliged and here is the result!

Testing the Local Hospitality Factor

When I first arrived, Folkert came to pick me up at the train station. I was armed with my trusty backpack and my guitar and ready to rock!... except I couldn't figure out how to get through the gates in the train station.

I had an electronic ticket so I tried to scan it on the machines that control the security gates but my phone would switch to Apple Pay each time I tried which was very frustrating. Luckily a local saw me, scanned his travel card and let me sneak through the gates when they opened for him. It was a bit silly but hey, I was just getting a feeling for the local hospitality and it didn't disappoint.

Speaking of local hospitality, as soon as I got back to Folkert and Else's apartment, Else was making pannenkoeken which is Dutch for “pancakes.” The dutch like making thinner pancakes than we're used to and in fact it's almost quite crepe-like. It's a bit thicker than a crepe and it's much larger but the best part is that you can really change up the flavor to satisfy your need for sweet or savory.

The batter by itself is relatively bland but it's the toppings or the ingredients you mix with them that really take them to the next level. We started off with a couple sweet ones and topped them with “Basterdsuiker” which literally translated to “Bastard Sugar.” I don't know why it's called that but you know me, I just go with the flow!

I topped my first pannenkoek with syrup, sugar and cinnamon and then Folkert showed me how to roll it up to make it a little easier to eat. Here is a picture of my pancake before and after rolling it.

When you roll it up, you can slice through it and get these nice full bites of deliciousness! It makes them quite easy to eat and before you know it, we were a few sweet pannenkoeken deep so it was time to switch it up to a more savory flavor.

Folkert took over the cooking duties and started frying up some bacon. Once the bacon was done, he poured in the batter into the frying pan. As the batter began to cook, the bacon effectively became part of the pancake and the batter had mixed with the grease of the bacon making it even more mouth-watering. To finish it off, he threw some cheese on top of the pannenkoek and then flipped it to get the cheese a little crispy.

The end result is a delicious pancake with bacon and cheese mixed in. The best part though was in order to satisfy my need for savory AND sweet, I poured syrup on top and tore into it. Talk about the best breakfast-dinner I've ever had! Folkert and Else had made a double batch of batter so they kept making them and I kept eating them until I was ready to burst.

After a few beers and some catching up, we decided to call it a night as we had a big day planned starting the following morning!

Rotterdam

The next morning I woke up to the wonderful aroma of coffee annnnnndddddd MORE PANNENKOEKEN! We didn't finish off the batter from the night before so Else started up the griddle and made several more. I stuck with the sweet ones for the morning to go along with the amazing coffee. Again, I'm begging you to try these if you ever get the chance. They are so good!

After lounging for a bit, we jumped in the car and Folkert started driving us to a city about an hour away called Rotterdam. Rotterdam has a different feeling than Amsterdam because it was bombed in World War II so the architecture is a lot more modern and has quite a few more skyscrapers. It's a beautiful city and we had plenty of time to explore it.

We walked around the city stopping in some cafes along the way for some beer and one of my favorite Dutch snacks, Bitterballen. They are essentially fried balls of a meat mixture with a crunchy breading on the outside. They are typically dipped in mustard and it's a perfect snack to have along with some local beer.  You can see them on the table in the picture below.

I learned that every bar has a standard “house beer” which is not made in house, but is a pilsner from one of the more famous brands around the Netherlands. For instance, many cafes or bars had Heineken on tap and when you go in and order a “little beer” they know to pour you a 25cl pour of Heineken. It was really fun to stop into different places to try all of the beers on tap. Other notable brands that were common (and delicious) were Hertog Jan, Grolsch, Jupiler and Amstel.

They are really easy drinking beers but it was really cool to try them all and compare the differences. I think my favorite overall was Grolsch but like I mentioned, they were all great.

After some food and beer to fuel us, we took a nice long walk around the city and passed some notable monuments such as the Swan Bridge, some art installments and a train rail that is no longer in service but still iconic. We continued walking awhile stopping here and there for coffee or beer and some snacks.

After walking quite some time, we grabbed a water taxi to take us back near where the train station was. It was a quick journey but a lot of fun to see the lights around the city as we trudged along the river. The following video is a bit dark but it's from inside the water taxi with a 360 degree view.

First European Football Match

Once we made it back to the train station, Else grabbed a train to head back to Amsterdam. The reason we had come down was not only to spend time in the city, but to also support Folkert's favorite soccer club that is based in Rotterdam. We grabbed a beer and headed for the stadium so I could experience my first ever European soccer match!

When we got to the stadium, there were plenty of food carts outside selling some delicious local treats and we decided to indulge in some fries. If you didn't know, the Dutch LOVE eating fries with mayonnaise. It's a bit different than a standard mayonnaise back home as it's a bit sweeter and not quite as thick. I really recommend that you try them because even though it sounds a little weird, it's really delectable.

Now because it was match day, Folkert explained that there is another way to order your fries. You can order your fries with “War Sauce” which consists of mayonnaise, peanut sauce and chopped onions. It was a no-brainer! I got a large order of fries with war sauce and got ready to dig in. Luckily for you I was able to control myself just long enough to grab a photo.

They were some of the best fries I've ever had and I devoured them with gusto. After I finished, I felt the fires of war building in my stomach (it was probably just indigestion) and I was ready for the match!

The club Folkert supports is called Feyenoord and they were playing a Swiss club called the “Young Boys.” Let's just say there were a lot of interesting things being said about the Swiss club due to their team name and leave it at that.

As we sat down in the seats to prepare for the match, I took in the scene. It seemed pretty much like an American football game setting with people grabbing drinks and food before finding their seats. However, there were a lot of “fight songs” being played for Feyenoord and many people were singing along. Here is a photo of Folkert and I sporting our Feyenoord gear.

One of the biggest differences I noticed between European soccer and American football is that beyond being connected by simply rooting for the same club or wearing the same jersey, you learn songs and chants that are club-specific. This provides for an electric atmosphere when the entire crowd is singing or chanting in unison. It's a feeling that's hard to explain but the energy that is flowing through the stadium at game time is other-worldly.

Here's a video of the hardcore fan section of the stadium.

As you can see, there are fireworks shooting off, flares being lit and a huge sign behind it all. This is all from the crowd! The fans bring in torches and fireworks to shoot off in honor of their team which is dedication! Of course, you're not allowed to bring in fireworks or flares but that doesn't stop a lot of people from finding a way. At the end of the video you hear Folkert say, "They're definitely getting a fine for that" which is apprently pretty typical.  You can also hear me say, “the game hasn't even started yet” which was crazy! The game hadn't even started but the crowd was ready to cheer on their club with everything they had.

Feyenoord played pretty well and got a penalty kick pretty early on in the first half. They scored to take the lead 1-0. The crowd went wild!! The hardcore fan section started a chant in Dutch saying something along the lines of, “Where are you from?!” And then the rest of the crowd responded with, “Don't you know?! We're from Rotterdam!” It was really awesome to see the interaction between the entire fan base for Feyenoord.

Later on in the game, Feyenoord had plenty of chances but just couldn't quite capitalize on them. With about 20 minutes to go their defense fell apart and the Young Boys took advantage of a great chance and scored to tie the game 1-1. The game ended in a draw which was disappointing but better than a loss!

Folkert and I made our way back to Amsterdam via train and his car and got in around 12:30 am as the game hadn't started until 9pm. We hit the hay and got ready for another great day in the Netherlands.

Enjoying Local Fare and the Company of Local Friends

When I woke up the next day, Folkert had to go to work but Else had the day off so we enjoyed some morning coffee with some delicious seasonal treats called “Kruidnoten.” They are very similar to a ginger snap and they have a delightful crunch and a rich flavor. They are pretty small and make for a great coffee companion.  It was a little too easy to eat handful after handful of them.

I had made plans with another local friend for lunch so Else walked me through the city as I made my way to the meeting point. We walked by a local outdoor market that is setup most days of the week and it's a great place to buy fresh produce and other fresh foods.

We found the spot where I was meeting my friend, and Else and I parted ways. I went into a “Food Hall” which is exactly like many marketplaces that are becoming popular in other metropolitan cities. It's a big food court with several different stalls to buy food from. They're generally local and serve artisanal food. Of course there's also a bar and a specialized beer bar in there too so you can enjoy a good craft brew with your food.

I was drinking a “little beer” at the bar when Cat and her husband Cameron showed up. I know Cat from our time in China many years ago and every time I get the chance, I always try to hang out with her and Cameron. They are good people! Here's a picture of Cat and I.

After grabbing some food and some beers and catching up for awhile, I started making my way back to Folkert and Else's and took in the local scenery along the walk. I was crossing a bridge and then bells starting going off signaling that a boat was approaching and they were going to raise the bridge. Although it's a standard everyday practice for the locals, I was in awe and so I took a video of the whole affair.

One thing I really love doing in new cities is going for walks and exploring the everyday life and culture. I think it's always fascinating to see how people lead their day-to-day lives because everyone's goal in life is to survive and if they can, thrive. 

There are a million different ways to make a life for yourself and I love seeing how others do it because I learn so much! Keeping an open mind and seeing new perspectives is always a great way to expand your horizons and make positive changes in your own life.

Once I got back, Else and Folkert were ready to head to a local brewery where they had reserved a spot for us to eat some snacks and drink some beers. It was a cool spot called “Troost” which means, “Comfort.” It was a really cool brewery that had some delightful brews. Here is a picture of the brewery along with a picture of Folkert and Else enjoying their first pour of the night.

I tried a few different styles including Bochs, honey blondes, pilsners and a wit. My overall favorite was the honey blond and they said that for every pint of it they sell, they donate some of the profits to help save bees around the world.  Because that was the case, I had two of them to show my support for the cause!

We took a nice walk through a local park on the way back to Folkert and Else's and needed to call it an early night because the next day we would be doing an activity that I never knew existed! It's called, “Blokarting.”

What the Heck is Blokarting?!

Blokarting is basically "wind sailing" and it is really fun!  Here is a video of what it looks like from afar.

You get into a cart with three wheels that has a sail, a rope to control the sail and a steering wheel.  The sail is your gas pedal as the tighter you pull on the rope, the more the sail catches in the wind and propels you forward.  The tricky part is to catch the wind just right around turns to make sure you have enough momentum to get back into the wind stream.  Here's a picture of the three of us just before we started.

Here are our "chariots:"

"Luckily" for us, it was quite windy (and a little rainy) which made for good blokart conditions.  We took off going around and around the course learning a little more every time we finished a lap.  An hour passed by really quickly and when we finished, we noticed that we had gotten just a little dirty.

We walked into a local bar and got some stares but the staff was used to seeing the same thing day in and day out.  We went into the bathroom to clean up a bit then ordered some hot drinks and food.  Unfortunately, Folkert missed a little sand in his beard so his sandwich got a little bit of an extra crunch at the end.

We headed back into town for some hot showers and a nap as we had a long night ahead of us.  Folkert headed off to a reunion and so Else and I hung out and she made one of my favorite local dishes, stamppot!

More Deliciousness

Stamppot is a dish that consists of a lot of boiled vegetables with a potato base and then you mash it all together and serve it with meat.  Else's homemade stamppot was delicious and she served it with sausage.  Here is a picture of the amazing yumminess.

Another very popular way to spice up the dish is to add nutmeg to it.  As I'm a leaf on the wind, I went with the flow and grabbed the shaker to pour it on.  It was the perfect dish after a day out in the cold and a perfect dish to absorb some beers! Else had bought some of her favorites at the grocery store so we could try them.  My favorite was a dunkelweiss (dark wheat) by a local brewery called Texels.

After filling our bellies, Else and I took off from their place as we both had different groups of friends to meet up with for some drinks.  Coincidentally, I had some American friends in town from Germany so I met up with them for a beer and then we headed off to meetup with Else's group at a 90s throwback party.  The DJs were playing some great tunes that everyone knew and it had a grungy and fun vibe.  We hung out for several hours and then trekked back to the apartment around 2am.

When we got back, Folkert had just gotten home as well so we chatted for a little bit and then crashed hard.  I had a few more things to check off my Amsterdam list and only one day left to finish them!  Did I do it?! Let's find out!

Final Day in Amsterdam

On my last day in Amsterdam, I was greeted with two specialties. #1 consisted of some botterkoek (butter cake) which is really easy to make but so amazing to eat and #2 was a visit from Sinterklaas!  

The recipe for botterkoek is easy: 1/2 pound of flour, 1/2 pound of sugar, 1/2 pound of butter and 1/2 an egg.  You mix it all together then put it in a cake tin and push it down.  Cook it at about 400 degrees Fahrenheit for 20 minutes then let cool.  Needless to say, it's very dense but very comforting.  Here is a picture of it with some "pepernoten" which were like the "kruidnoten" except they were soft and chewy instead of crunchy.  They also had a nice strong anise flavor.

When I went to put my shoes on for a nice walk around town, I discovered I had gotten a visit from Sinterklaas! He's the Dutch Santa Claus and he brings treats to put in peoples' shoes instead of their stockings.  His holiday is actually December 6th but it looks like he came a little early for me this year which was nice of him (actually her haha).  I found these chocolate coins in my right boot (before I put it on) and I kind of felt like a little kid on Christmas day.  It was a really nice surprise from Else.

Since it was such a beautiful, sunny day, I wanted to head to the city center to visit a nice beer store to pick up an amazing beer called Westvleteren.  It's a delicious Trappist Belgian quadruple and it's one of the rarer Trappist beers.  A Trappist beer is brewed by monks and in this case, they only make enough to support their monastery and that's it until the next year.  It's also a huge pain in the ass to get a hold of some as they only open their one phone line for an hour here or there to take orders.  Lucky for me, the beer store I went to had plenty of them.

At around €15 each they aren't cheap but hey, when in Rome right?! I recently learned that my cousin Mandy absolutely loves Belgian quads so I made sure to get her a bottle as well! I'm looking forward to drinking them together.

Another thing on my list was to try some other house beers and so we went to a local haunt that Folkert used to go to all the time when he lived closer to the city center. Luckily they had a local beer I hadn't tried yet so I got the chance to finally try some Grolsch on tap.  While we were enjoying the beer, he suggested we try a common snack called "ossenworst" which is good quality ground beef that is served raw with pickled onions and mustard.

One bite and I was sold! The pop of the onion mixing with the nicely spiced meat and mustard was heavenly.  Washing it down with a nice gulp of delicious beer was the icing on the cake! I know you're probably thinking, "gross!" But you never know until you try :)

Folkert and I headed back to catch that day's Feyenoord game on TV but as we were walking back, we stopped for one last seasonal treat called "oliebollen." The literal translation is "oil balls" and I would say it's pretty accurate haha.  It's basically a big fried doughnut and you can get them plain or with raisins and apple inside.  Folkert and I wanted some fresh oliebollen with raisins and apples so the guy told us to come back in 45 minutes.

Oh no! What were we to do for 45 minutes! Wait... is that a sign over there? A sign for another house beer I haven't tried? Oh darn, looks like we'll have to kill some time in there hehe.

Folkert and I went into a local bar to drink some Jupiler on tap and had a great conversation about linguistics.  I ordered the next round in Dutch and my pronunciation was getting there.  It's a great language but involves a lot more guttural sounds than we're used to in English.  As always, I tried my best!

When the 45 minutes were up, we walked back to the oliebollen stand for some fresh doughnuts and ate them with relish.  It was a huge gut bomb as it's just eating a big fried piece of dough but I loved every second of it.

We got back to watch the Feyenoord game (they won 3-2 this time) then we headed out for one last nice meal together. 

Indonesian Food

The second time I visited Folkert and Else in Amsterdam 4 years ago was a great trip.  On the first night they treated myself and my friend Sean to an Indonesian meal so we could try some great food.  Indonesia was a Dutch colony which is why they have a lot of great spices and of course some great Indonesian food.

We decided to go back to the same restaurant and we all ordered the exact same that we got last time.  All three of us ordered the sampler platter at different spice levels.  Else went with mild, Folkert medium and as for myself, I went spicy all the way! It's a good thing I was raised eating food with my father because I have to say it was quite spicy but I made it through.  Even though I made it through no problem, I'm sweating as I write this just thinking about it!  It definitely wasn't anywhere close to the spicy wing challenge from last week's post though.

I devoured the whole platter along with some fried rice and then called it a night.  I had to leave in the morning and was ready to take it easy before a long travel day.

Just Like Arnold Said...

"I'll be back" to Amsterdam again for sure.  It's one of my favorite spots in Europe and it's always a pleasure spending time with Folkert and Else.  I would strongly recommend that you visit the city should you get a chance and see all of the amazing experiences Amsterdam has to offer.

I'll leave it there and I hope you've enjoyed reading about my trip to Amsterdam.  Next week is going to have some fun gems such as visiting the local air base, visiting Ireland and hitting a local German Festival.  I hope you have a fantastic weekend!

Peace and love,

Tony G