A Beer That Tastes Like Pho?!

Hello and welcome to another edition of Tour Guide with Tony G. I'm your host, Tony G.  This week's post is jam packed full of great photos of some beautiful seascapes, caves and of course, food!

Here's the general overview:

• Chilling in Halong Bay
• First Time in a Ghost Town
• Getting in Some Beach Time
• Trying New Foods (always!)
• Finding a Pho Beer
• And Much More!

Đi thôi! (Let's go!)

Chilling in Halong Bay

First and foremost, Halong Bay was recommended to me by several friends and it did not disappoint.  It's a UNESCO World Heritage Site which means it is "of outstanding universal value." It is quite incredible to see all of the amazing limestone islands and it's especially great to see the caves inside of them.

The picture above is a great example of what the bay is like but it spreads far and wide.  When Scott and I jumped on a boat to cruise through it, the boat cruised through island after island for an hour to get to our first destination which was a cave inside of one of the islands.

The cave had three chambers in it and each one was bigger than the one before.  It was really amazing to see what can be formed by mother nature over the course of millions of years.

That's my, "whoa this is incredible" face. I think that's Scott's too.

After the cave, we went to a really cool island that opened up into a hidden oasis that had monkeys and all kinds of wildlife in it. I didn't snag a photo but it was really serene and quite beautiful. 

Afterward, we took off and headed for an island dedicated to a Vietnamese General that had a stellar view from the top.

Although I had just done leg day, I told myself, "another ~500 steps doesn't scare me!" At least that's what I thought before starting the ascent.  Halfway through I regretted the decision but once I made it to the top, I was back on board with my initial decision.  There was a 360 degree view and it was absolutely stunning.  The islands popping out of the water are all unique and it's easy to get lost in thought as you stare into a seemingly endless horizon full of them.

Afterward, we got on the boat and headed back to the harbor around sunset.  It was a nice ride and a great view.  Here is a video of what we were looking at on the way back in:

Weeks before we arrived in Halong Bay, Scott and I snagged a deal on a great hotel and I got the best balcony in the whole place! Here was my view during the day:

It was quite the scene to wake up to and the best part was that boats passed by every few minutes.  I would go down to the lobby around 7:30am and grab some coffee then bring it back up to my room to enjoy the view.  It was a great way to start each day and it's a view that would be hard to get sick of.

It was also a fantastic view during the evening as the sun sets just on the other side of the water. It was a perfect time to reflect on the day and to take notice of another revolution of this planet.

First Time in a Ghost Town

Besides all of the boat traffic, Halong Bay turned out to be a ghost town! Originally I thought it was due to the fact that it was the off season so there weren't many tourists around. However, I eventually found out that the biggest population of tourists are from China and Korea... Unfortunately, both of those countries happen to be on lock down at the moment due to the Corona Virus.

Because of that, there wasn't much that was open in the part of Halong Bay I was staying in.  However, it did have one cool restaurant and bar that was open daily from morning til night and they had a great salad I kept going back for.

Any guesses as to what kind of meat is on top?!

If you guessed cow tongue, then yup! You're absolutely right! I feel like it was a bit serendipitous as I had mentioned it in my last post and lo and behold, I found it the next day at a restaurant.  The salad was really great and the view from the bar was awesome too.

Due to the place being a ghost town, it was actually kind of nice to not have to compete with mobs of people.  I'm sure that the businesses weren't too happy about it but as a tourist, it was a lovely opportunity.

Getting in Some Beach Time

I absolutely love the beach and every time I get a chance, I jump in the water. I wasn't sure what the temperature of the water was going to be like so I took the plunge and checked it out for myself.

The water was really nice and quite refreshing on a hot day. Had there been some waves, I would have done some body surfing but alas, a quick dip was all I got!

It was nice to take a stroll down the beach and enjoy the sound of the water.  Because I'm from Colorado, I really appreciate any and all time I get to spend near beaches and water as we don't have much of that in Denver or the surrounding areas.  It's a special treat for me whenever I get to spend some time in the sand so I was grateful for the experience.

As the weekend came to a close, Scott and I caught a ride back into Hanoi and said goodbye to the world wonder that is Halong Bay.  

Verdict: If you get a chance, you HAVE to go. The scenery is beautiful, there's a casino in one of the hotels and there is a local beer called Bia Halong which is really delightful.

Trying New Foods

I've been eating so many new foods that I never knew existed and it's been a delight.  I am very thankful to have made some good local friends that can show me some of their favorite dishes and restaurants.  This week I tried a dish I'd been meaning to try called bánh xèo.  

Bánh xèo is kind of like a crepe or pancake that starts with a thin layer of fried batter that is then filled with meat and bean sprouts and then folded over like an omelette.  This is what it looks like:

The first thought that came to mind was that I would just grab a slice, dip it in some fish sauce and boom - pop it right in.  However, there is a process to eating bánh xèo that blew my mind! Let's take a look:

First and foremost, you grab a sheet of rice paper.

Second, throw in some lettuce and other leafy garnishes onto said rice paper.

Third, grab a slice of the bánh xèo and throw it on top of the lettuce.

Fourth, go to magician school and somehow magically wrap it all up in a neat roll to be consumed. 

Here is how bánh xèo master-wrapper Thuy did it:

I intentionally did not take a video or picture of my work because it definitely left something to be desired (aka it was terrible).  My first couple tries were pretty horrible but towards the end I made one or two decent rolls. 

It's quite the experience and it is absolutely delicious.  I'm always stoked when I find something new to try that I've never had before or even heard of.  It's these kinds of experiences that always leave me in awe and push me to try more new things.

Verdict: I would definitely recommend bánh xèo to anyone and everyone! It comes with many different fillings including vegetarian fillings. It's a bit of effort, but doesn't food taste better when you work for it?

Finding a Pho Beer

I have recently been introduced to a few more craft breweries around town and it's really opened my eyes to Vietnam being a pretty big force in the craft brew scene.  I originally hadn't expected it but I have been pleasantly surprised by the quality and abundance of the craft beer out here.

At one said craft brewery I was looking through the menu and I noticed that there was a pho beer served in a bottle.  I figured I had to give it a shot because when else would I have the chance? When in Rome, right?!

Right when I tried the first sip, I was floored. THE BEER TASTED LIKE PHO - but in a very pleasant way.  It had the essences of pho nailed to a tee.  I was with another local friend and she tried it and couldn't believe the taste! If the fact that a local thinks it tastes like pho doesn't sell it for you, I don't know what else could!  

Verdict: You have to try it! Even if you're not a beer lover, I'm sure you would get a great kick out of trying a beer that tastes like pho.  If you don't like it, you can grab one of the other awesome local craft beers they make which are more traditional styles.

Final Thoughts

I can't believe I'm leaving Vietnam in a week! Time is ABSOLUTELY FLYING!  I quite enjoyed Thailand but I have to say that Vietnam has really made an impact on me.  I've already decided that I'm 90% sure I'm coming back next winter to visit a different, smaller city right on the beach.  I wouldn't mind a winter where it's always in the 70s, sunny and a I can get to the beach in two minutes...

This weekend is my first (and most likely only) gig in Vietnam this time around but I'm absolutely stoked for it!  I've got some local friends coming and I'm excited to showcase a new original song that I've recently written.

I'm looking forward to being in Cambodia for a bit over a week after we leave here and see what treasures it holds.  After that, it looks like I'll be headed to colder weather in Germany but I'm excited to get back and see friends and family that I've been missing since December. (Don't worry, I miss YOU too!)

I would encourage you to go try something new this weekend. Maybe hit that restaurant you've always wanted to try or making that dish that you've had your eye on.  New experiences open up our minds to possibilities that we didn't know could exist until we try them. That's why I'm always eager to jump in head first to any opportunity that comes my way.

Until next time!

Tony G

Same Life, Different Way of Living

Hello and welcome to this latest blog post with yours truly, Tour Guide Tony G!

Here's what we'll cover in this episode of my travels in Hanoi, Vietnam:

• Egg Beverages
• Interesting Foods (read at your own risk)
• Crossing the Street (not for the feint of heart)
• Hanging with a Childhood Friend (family friendly)
• Drinking Craft Beer
• Booking a Gig
• Jamming with Locals
• And More!!

Let's do it!

Egg Beverages

One very interesting beverage that is widely known in Vietnam is egg coffee. It's almost like a latte with egg instead of milk and it's quite delicious. The small cup comes to you with a bit of egg custard on top and coffee on the bottom. It's light and fluffy and pretty dang sweet. I learned that the reason this came about was due to supply shortages in 1967 during the Vietnam War. During this time, it was very hard to get access to fresh milk for your coffee so someone had the notion of using an egg instead. It took off after that and it's been a Vietnamese staple ever since.

Verdict: I would definitely buy it again and drink it. Definitely not an everyday go-to though.

Another really interesting drink that is served at some cafes is egg beer.  Now being the beer drinker I am, I had to give it a try. 

Again it was a glass full of egg custard and then you mix the beer in with it slowly.  It fizzes up quite a bit but when you drink it, it's super light and fluffy... quite odd for a beer.  However, for $2 it was definitely worth trying!

Verdict: Weird - would not buy it again but if someone bought it for me, I'd drink it.  If you come through, I would definitely recommend you give it a try! What have you got to lose?

Interesting Foods

So I've eaten some interesting foods in my time. One of my favorite dishes I've ever had was cold, thinly sliced cow tongue drizzled with chili oil.  It's not for everyone but it melts in your mouth and the flavor is unreal.

Seeing as I'm quite adventurous, I'm always game to try new foods. The other day, my friend Thuy hit me up to go get some dinner. She asked me what I wanted and I told her to choose some of her favorite cuisine. We ended up going out for snails and balut.

For those of you who don't know what balut is, read at your own risk! 

Balut is a fertilized chicken egg that has become an embryo but is not yet hatched. The whole egg is then boiled and you eat it like you would a normal boiled egg but it has a little more... crunch to it.  To be honest, I really enjoyed it but I know it's not for everyone.

It was served in a broth and then we dipped it in a little chili sauce to give it some extra flavor.  I've had this before in China but it was with duck eggs instead of chicken eggs.  Who know?! You might surprise yourself if you give it a try!

Verdict: I would totally eat this again and even order it on my own. It's an experience and quite delicious!

To go along with our balut, we had snails in a DELICIOUS sauce that was savory and amazing.  You just pick up the shell, use the thin metal tool to stab the cooked snail and then twist the shell to get a perfect piece of meat out.  Then you dip it in chili sauce and enjoy! Mmm mm mm mm mmmmmmmmm! The sauce was so good and they give you bread to mop up the remnants which is bomb.

Verdict: Heck ya I would eat snails again! This wasn't the first time I had them and it certainly won't be the last!

The last interesting dish is a bit more normal than the previous two. It's just a bowl of chicken pho BUT, the noodles are made in-house and are super good.  I wouldn't have stopped at this restaurant normally but one day when I was out for a walk, I saw this:

That is very, very thin dough that has been slightly cooked and then hung up to dry.  When it's ready, it gets folded up into layers so it's a bit thicker and then cut into slices to form noodles. Throw it in some boiling water, add it to some traditional chicken broth with herbs and spices and you get:

An absolutely stellar bowl of chicken pho.  This bowl of pho is one of my favorite dishes to date. It's so simple but the flavors are insane and the noodles are a perfect consistency.  I was lamenting to Scott that there's nothing like it that I've had in the states and for $2 a bowl, there's no way I'll be able to find its counterpart when (if) I return home.

Verdict: I'll be right back... grabbing a bowl. You should get some too!

Crossing the Street

Hanoi has around 8 million people and about 50 billion motorbikes (don't quote me on that), which means that unless it's late night on a weekday, there is ALWAYS traffic.  Crossing the street isn't as easy as it is in the states where jay walking is usually illegal and thus there are nice crosswalks and lights for pedestrians.  In Hanoi, it's everyone for themselves and you better have played frogger before.

Here's a video of me crossing the street:

To be honest, this was actually a relatively easy crossing. During rush hour you just have to start walking out into the street and the motorbikes will go around you.  It's a bit nerve wracking but I crossed with a couple locals the first time to get the hang of it. Now I'm a seasoned veteran (seeing as I haven't died yet) and it's not too bad.

The local traffic would seem like chaos to most but to be honest, it's ALWAYS flowing. Even during rush hour, the traffic is constantly moving and motorbikes are by far the best way to get around.  Many people don't follow the lines on the road but there is definitely a system in play.  You constantly hear honking but it's not angry honking like in the states, it's a "hey, I'm here, don't run into me" honk.  I am not ready to drive a motorbike out here but I did take a ride on one!

Thuy and I were going to explore the old quarter and the Hoan Kiem lake a bit one night so she picked me up on her scooter.  I was a little scared at first but after about 2 minutes I was at ease. Like I mentioned above, there is definitely a system to the chaos and I haven't seen a single accident yet! 

The lake is beautiful and there are so many well-lit structures on or near it. It's a really great spot to walk around at night.

Hanging with a Childhood Friend

After posting my last blog, I had a childhood buddy of mine reach out to me on Facebook.  He told me that he and his wife were coming through Hanoi and he saw that I was here.  We had been meaning to get together for a beer for the last two years or so.... it's interesting that it came to fruition in Hanoi.

This is my buddy Nathan.

He and I used to play Pokemon back in the day but then went to different high schools and fell out of touch.  We both went to CSU (GO RAMS!) but didn't run into each other too much during that time. It was until a couple years ago we saw each other at a mutual friend's birthday party and got to catch up.  He's a solid guy with tons of jokes and a very easygoing mentality - my kind of people.

Scott and I joined Nathan and his wife, BreAnna for dinner and then we took them to the old quarter so they could see it with their own eyes. We had a couple beers and then called it a night as they had a day trip lined up the next day with an early start.

It was really great seeing them and shooting the breeze.  It's kind of funny that of all places, we caught up with each other in Vietnam. It's a different way of living, but it's the same life.

Drinking Craft Beer

Hanoi actually has a pretty booming craft beer scene with a couple local breweries on the map. I had heard of one from some expats so Scott and I went to try it out ourselves. Being the beer snobs from Colorado that we are (read: I just drank egg beer....) we wanted to check it out and see if it was worthy of our seal of approval (again I have no merit here).

My dad was jealous of the IPA selection they had and I must say the few of them I tried were delicious! Everything on this board is local except for the Rogue beer.  Each beer is between $3-5 which is on the pricier side for Vietnam but it's still a steal compared to brewery prices in the US.

Scott and I walked up to the second floor to get a decent view and it turns out they have a stage!  They also have a PA system and so the wheels in my head started turning... 

Booking My First Gig in Hanoi

The next day, I reached out to the bar via Facebook. They informed me that they don't have live performances very often but they we're excited that I wanted to play.  I went back in person to meet the manager and we talked about dates, music and what kind of crowd to expect. Because it's more of a local and quiet crowd, they told me to not be worried if I start to play and most people leave for a quieter venue.  I told them I've played to no one before and had no qualms doing it again!

I'm excited to get a performance in yet another country under my belt and I really hope they enjoy my music.  On top of the great beer, their made-to-order food selection is really eclectic and awesome. In the end they offered me free food and beer to play for a couple hours on a Saturday night. Who can say no to that?!

Jamming with Some Locals

Last week I had the pleasure of playing with a wonderful pianist/vocalist.  She and I had some good harmonies and a lot of fun playing some tunes together.  This week I randomly met some young fellas who are guitar players and they wanted to jam.

Last Tuesday I was sitting outside of a bar drinking a beer and people watching when a young man named Lam walked up to me and introduced himself. He said he and his group had just finished a meal and they were waiting to leave but he wanted to know what I was up to. He saw my guitar tattoos (seems to be a common theme) and asked if I played. He looked me up on Instagram and asked me if I wanted to jam sometime. 

I'm thinking to myself, "Of course I want to jam! I'm always down to jam!" But I played it cool and told him, "ya I could probably do that."

We met up at a cafe a couple days later and he brought a couple friends who also play. We traded songs back and forth and I followed along as they showed me some Vietnamese songs and then we played some western pop songs they know. It was a lot of fun and it was good to play with some other guitar players.  They're going to come check out my show next weekend so maybe I'll get them up on stage with me.

That's Lam on the left, Nam in the middle and Ming on the right

Final Thoughts

Every day is just another day in the life. I've been teaching online like a madman and working on my website as always. Scott and I are now regulars at a couple local joints including a couple pho places and a really great sushi place we have been going to a lot. It's hard to pass up a bunch of delicious sushi for ~$6 depending on what we're feeling that day.

When I wake up every day, my life doesn't seem different than when I'm back in the states - it's just the people that are missing. Obviously I miss my friends and family back home but there's nothing like meeting new people, making new friends and having new, amazing experiences.

Although it's not as easy to communicate without being able to speak the local language, a smile goes a long way and you can always point at pictures when ordering food. If there are no pictures, give something random a shot and you might surprise yourself by eating something you never would have tried. Whether you like it or hate it, you have the experience and that's something you can take with you. Always.

Take care of yourself and reach out to a friend today to let them know you're thinking about them. I'm sure it will give them a big smile and I bet it will make you feel like a million bucks too =)

Cheers,

Tony G

Hanging in Hanoi

Hello ladies and gentlemen! Welcome to this week's edition of my blog.  I'm your host, Tony G and in this episode, we're going to take a look into the awesome yet chaotic city that is Hanoi.

Other tidbits to look forward to:

• Last days in Chiang Mai, Thailand
• Traveling to Vietnam
• Becoming a millionaire
• Trying the DELICIOUS local food
• Busy Beer Street
• "Flashback City"

Last Days in Chiang Mai

My time in Thailand came and went all too quickly.  I really enjoyed the people of Thailand and I would rate them as some of the friendliest in the world.  The food was delicious even if it made me cry on several occasions and the life was simple yet never boring.

I was very fortunate to meet the people I did while living in Thailand and I know this is becoming a cliche in my life, but I really felt at home in Chiang Mai.  I made great friends with locals and expats alike, played some wonderful gigs, and very quickly adjusted to the daily life.  Here are some of the people who really highlighted my trip:

Teuw, the bar owner at C.U. Corner Bar in Chiang Mai. She was the first person to offer me a gig in Chiang Mai and I ended up playing there twice a week for the short time I was in town.

Nui, one of the bartenders at C.U. Corner Bar who took time out of her days off to show Scott and I around to some of the most authentic food in the city.  

Wan Sai (I really don't know how to spell his name...), our local noodle guy who always had a big smile on and although we couldn't communicate verbally, we always enjoyed his company and his food.

A and Nui, the chef and owner of our favorite local restaurant.  We asked them to surprise us every day and they always delivered! The food was amazing and their kindness always astounded me. 

The night before Scott and I left, I played one last gig at C.U. Corner and A came out to join us.  He sat down and ordered a small bottle of rum and some bottles of soda water to mix it with.  He proceeded to take it down and followed it up with another one. We joined him for a drink or two of rum but he was a true champion.  He sang along to some of the songs he knew and we had an absolute blast hanging out and talking with him after I had finished my set.  His catchphrase is "Come on!" and he would say it whenever we would tease him or tell him jokes. He is such a delightful person and a true friend.

The last day before we left, we went to Nui and A's restaurant for one last delicious surprise dish. They hooked us up with some delicious cabbage and chicken over rice and then for dessert they served us warm, heartfelt hugs.  It was sad to leave them but I know that if I ever go back to Chiang Mai, I'll always have a seat at the best restaurant in town.

Traveling to Vietnam

Traveling to Hanoi from Chiang Mai is relatively painless.  The Chiang Mai airport is pretty small but they had a lounge which we had access to due to our fancy-shmancy credit cards.  Scott and I got to enjoy some complimentary beverages and food while we waited for our flight and it was pretty sweet.

The flight was only about an hour and a half and it was a relatively smooth ride.  Once we landed, we had to go through a bit of a chaotic visa process but once we figured it out, it was smooth sailing.  We passed through customs, grabbed our bags and hopped into a car that was waiting to take us to our apartment.

As we started our ~30 minute car ride from the airport to our new digs, we had the opportunity to see quite a bit of the city.  Hanoi is a city of 8 million people which makes it comparable to Chicago.  It has big skyscrapers, lots of traffic and it also has quite a bit of smog.  It reminds me so much of Shanghai (although it's only a third of the size) and brings me back to the chaos of everyday life that I grew to love.

Our apartment is on the 6th floor of a building in the more traditional part of Hanoi and the view from our balconies is pretty great.

Our location is amazing as we have a supermarket on the bottom floor of our apartment building and countless restaurants and shops right across the street.  We also live by a small lake that is surrounded by cafes and a produce market. It's a great place to go for a run in the morning and see all of the fishermen looking to land a couple of big ones.

There is also a huge lake just about 35 minutes north of us by foot.  It's around 12 miles around and it's a bit more of a bougie are with many expats occupying the more expensive housing surrounding it. I've explored the area a little bit but Scott and i have plans to check out a local craft brewery that's right on the water. I'm looking forward to that!

There are brilliant buildings surrounding the whole lake including many pagodas that are beautifully lit at night.

Becoming a Millionaire

One of the fun parts of Vietnam is that their currency system is based on large quantities instead of a single unit.  One USD equals 23,000 Vietnamese Dong so when we went to the ATMs to withdraw some cash, we became millionaires on the spot.  It feels pretty weird to be walking around with over two million of the local currency but it's quite the norm out here. The bills are in quantities of 500,000, 200,000, 100,000, 50,000, 20,000, 10,000 and there are also smaller bills such as 5,000 and 1,000. They do not use coins and everything is rounded to the nearest thousand.  Let me flash some cash for you:

Eight, 500,000 Dong bills = 4 million Dong!

It's taken some getting used to when you buy a meal and it comes out to cost 50,000 Dong although with a quick bit of simple math, you realize it's the equivalent of just over $2 so you don't feel so bad when you hand over 50,000 to the restaurant owner.

Speaking of food...

Trying the DELICIOUS Local Food

The food in Thailand was amazing no doubt about it.  The spice level was hot yet flavorful and the flavor profiles were delicious.  However, Vietnam's food is INSANE!  It is soooooo good I can't even wrap my head around it.  The local pho blows any kind of pho I've had in the states away by miles. The Banh mi sandwiches are out of this world and the different types of food I never knew existed (and still don't know the names of) never disappoint.  I can't wait to try so much more food over the next several weeks but here's a bit of what I have had:

Pho Bo (beef pho) an instant classic. I've already had 3-4 bowls of this stuff and it is absolutely fabulous.  The noodles are on point, the broth takes hours and hours to prepare correctly and the peppers, spicy sauce and vinegar take it to a whole new level.  Considering the weather has been mid 60s and high humidity, this dish is the best way to keep your bones warm.  I've been told it's a good idea to check out many different pho places due to the fact that their broth is different. Don't have to tell me twice!!!

Nuong - Tay Bac (good luck pronouncing it...) - was an absolute delicious feast.  Under the clay shingle with the meat and veggies on it are some hot coals that heat the shingle up and cook the food.  There were many different cuts of beef and pork as well as kimchi, potatoes, onions, eggplant, okra and mushrooms.  Once it's cooked, you either wrap it up in lettuce or simply dip it into a spicy sauce and throw it down the hatch.  Here's how it looks before you get started:

You oil up the clay shingle and then later use butter as the meat is cooking.  It was a two hour affair but it was well worth all the time and effort.  The meat and veggies cook up very nicely and all of it was topnotch.  You'll notice that the big bowl on the left in this picture is empty, let me show you what was poured into it.

When they serve this local wine they put ice in the bowl, cover it with plastic and then pour the wine over it to chill without watering it down.  I will be very honest and tell you that the wine tasted like cough syrup but that didn't deter me from having a couple toasts with some locals that hosted me through the experience.

That's Lam on the left (it's his restaurant) and Thuy flashing the peace sign.  Just a couple friendly locals I met that offered to show me some local cuisine.  As I mentioned before, the food was amazing but there was SO much! I didn't want to keep eating but I was told we had to finish it so I put my big boy pants on and got to work.  I did my best to put it all down with a "smile."

Busy Beer Street

Scott and I read up about the Old Quarter of Hanoi which is the more touristy part but has a lot going on. There is a really busy alley that is filled with bars that have small chairs and tables in front and it reminded me of Little Italy in NYC where all the maitre d's are trying to get your attention and have you come dine at their restaurant.  It was quite busy and crowded so Scott and I just stayed for a beer before wandering off to find something a little less in-your-face.

We stumbled across a nice little bar with excellent prices (20k for a draft beer) and met a couple of nice people with whom we swapped stories of adventure.  The Old Quarter seems quite lively and I've been looking for some gigs there but so far no luck.  Hopefully this changes soon as I would absolutely love to play here in Hanoi.

However, I've met a local musician who is a pianist and she and I played a little bit in a cafe just the other night. There was no crowd but it was very cool to play some songs and sing in harmony with her. Hopefully she and I will be able to book something before I leave but we've already been here almost a full week! It blows my mind!

"Flashback City"

Hanoi greatly reminds me of Shanghai in so many ways - the lack of traffic rules (next week I'll show you a video of how to cross the street in rush hour traffic), the sounds of the city, the smells of the city and of course the feel of the city.  I'm a big city kind of guy and I'm definitely getting my fix here in Hanoi.

As I walk through the streets, my mind is constantly bombarded with flashbacks from living in Shanghai and it takes me back to the streets of Shanghai almost 10 years ago. I catch myself laughing out loud at distant memories I haven't relived in years and sometimes I accidentally start speaking Chinese instead of English when I go into a shop or restaurant.  

In the part of the city Scott and I are staying in, it doesn't seem like there are many English speakers which adds to the fun of getting by without being able to communicate verbally.  I've learned a few words here or there but Vietnamese is a difficult language!  Thank goodness for pictures and google translate.

I'm really looking forward to meeting more locals and sharing those experiences with all of you!  Fingers crossed that I get a gig lined up as well.

I hope you have a fantastic week and I'll catch you next time.

Cheers,

Tony G

A Little Slice of Pai

Hello hello! Welcome to another blog from Tour Guide Tony G.  I'm your host Tony G and today we're going to be exploring my adventures around Chiang Mai, Thailand as well as a little town called, Pai.

In this blog we are going to cover:

• Food (ALWAYS!)
• More Gigs (with a full band!)
• The Corona Virus
• Visiting the Town of Pai
• Getting Ready to Hit Vietnam

Food!

I have been visiting the same restaurant for lunch every single day and it hasn't disappointed me even slightly.  In my last post, I talked about hanging out with Noi and her nephew, A (that's his name) each day at lunch time with my buddy Scott.  We always ask for a surprise and they have never cooked the same thing twice.

A knows we like food nice and spicy so he's been putting in a bunch of chili for us. However, when they serve us the dish, we always add more chili to bring up the heat and flavor.  Well, this week, he had it with us! He whipped us up a dish and threw in some very interesting chili I'd never seen before.  He handed us each a plate full of delicious chicken, vegetables, rice and two different types of chili.  One bite in and I was dying! However, as many of you know, the only way to eat spicy food is to keep shoveling it in bite after bite so that's what I did!

I felt the heat kept ramping up with each bite but I couldn't stop! I had to have more and more and before you knew it my plate was empty and my brow was drenched.  I stood up and bowed down before A signaling my defeat. He laughed and I could tell he found satisfaction in knocking our socks off.

I'm really happy that we have developed a little community here in our neighborhood of Chiang Mai and it's great to always see friendly faces.  Everyone smiles when you walk by and greet them and we've even had one family invite us to their evening meal a few times.  Unfortunately, we have always just eaten and are so full that we can't possibly fit another bite.  Kindness and love transcend languages and they are both in abundance out here.  I'll be sad to leave this community but it will stay with me for the rest of my days.

Scott and I have been eating at several other restaurants and we have a few go-to dishes we really enjoy including panang curry.  It's absolutely delicious! Here's Scott enjoying his.

It's a coconut curry with potato, chicken and other veggies in it. Served over rice (and with a healthy does of chili) it makes for a filling and delicious meal.  Next time you're at a Thai restaurant, give it a shot if you haven't already!

More Gigs

I've been playing about twice a week at the C.U. Corner Bar that I talked about in my last post.  The owner enjoys my music and she likes that the crowd also enjoys it all.  It's been a blast to see familiar faces and meet new people on a nightly basis.  In fact, When I was on the plane from Taiwan to Thailand, I was sitting next to a nice gentleman named Ollie who was telling me all about his past experiences in Thailand.  I gave him my card and told him to shoot me an email so we could grab dinner one night and explore the city.

Two weeks went by and I didn't hear from him so I figured that he had either forgotten or was just being polite on the plane and didn't want to follow through.  Well, I was playing a gig at the bar one night and who happened to stroll right in and take a seat?! You guessed it! It was Ollie and he gave me a big smile when I went up to chat with him during a break.  

It turns out that he has been having crazy electronic issues and can't connect his phone, his email or anything of the sort! He said everything else was going fine but he was really glad that he caught me while I was playing a gig because he wanted to catch up.  We had a nice chat about what he's been up to and I found out that he's Czech.  I told him I am headed back to Germany and he said he'll be back in Prague when I'm in Germany.  He invited me to come out so he can show me around his home town.  I just might have to take him up on that.

One of the things I've enjoyed most out here is meeting new people and getting to a point where I see familiar faces at the bar whenever I play. I'm a bit of a people person and I love making new friends and having great conversations. Although the bar is a little small, there's always a good crowd and good people from all over the world.

I've made a couple of musician buddies at C.U. Corner and one of them named John told me to come by a coffee shop one night to jam out. I brought my guitar and signed up to play a few songs then hung out with Scott and a few other musicians at a table.  The owner talked to me as I bought a beer for Scott and I and said that after I finished my performance he would give me a free small beer.  I thanked him and went back to the table to enjoy some music.

There were five acts before me and a couple of them were really awesome. There was a boyfriend/girlfriend duo who tore it up as well as a guy out of Philly who had an incredible voice.  After a couple of low-key Irish tunes were played by another group, it was my turn.  I tuned up, plugged in and was just about ready to start my first song...

All of a sudden two gentlemen walked up and said, "John told us to jam with you." Right after they said that, John walked up to me and told me to jam with the guys and have some fun.  I was delighted to say the least! I've been playing as a solo act for quite some time now and it was a blast to have other musicians jump in.  One played bass and the other sat in on the drum kit.  I decided to play some easy sing-alongs that were only a few chords so it would be easier for the bass player to follow.  We ripped through 3 songs and I thanked the bar for my time.  John came up and told me to keep playing and who was I to say, "no"?!

I played a few more songs and the crowd was having a blast.  I was having so much fun too that I really got caught up in the moment. It was refreshing as this is something that admittedly doesn't happen too much anymore when I'm playing the same covers for the 500th time.  After I finished a couple more songs, John wanted to get up and jam so I passed the baton and went to post up for his set.  He's an incredible musician and rips on the guitar and has a great voice. I hope I'm still living the dream when I'm 70 just like him!

As I walked past the bar, the owner beckoned me over and asked me what kind of beer I wanted. I told him Chang would be just fine and he pulled out a big bottle and told me, "You get a big bottle tonight because your set was awesome!" I blushed pretty hard and felt very flattered.  I wish I was going to be in town a little longer so I could play some gigs for him. Next time for sure!

Speaking of traveling through Asia...

The Corona Virus

I'm sure many of you have seen the news of an epidemic happening out of China called the Corona Virus.  There are indeed confirmed cases in Thailand and Vietnam but they are low in number and have been quarantined up to this point.  The amount of tourists out here has dropped quite a bit and in fact, many Chinese tourists can't return home because China is on lock down.  Almost all flights in and out of China have stopped and public transportation is also on hiatus for at least several more days.  I've been texting my friends in China and they tell me it's like a ghost town with everyone staying home.

Considering Scott and I travel by taxi, bus and soon by air, we bought masks to help lower our risk of exposure.  It's definitely not a guarantee by any means but a large percentage of the population (domestic and foreign) is wearing them which helps overall.  This is what I look like most of the time I'm in a confined space with others.

Overall I'm not too worried about exposure but I'm doing my best to stay healthy.  Hopefully the epidemic will peak soon and then start to decline.  If you'r interested, you should check out news articles about how they are building hospitals in WuHan China in less than 10 days! It's nuts!

Anyway, let's move on to something a little more uplifting.

Visiting Pai

Scott and I had heard of a lovely little town called Pai that lies to the west of Chiang Mai.  The best way to get there is by bus which is very cheap and quite scenic.  However, there are over 280 curves along the route so it is not for those who easily succumb to motion sickness.  I quite enjoyed the ride but some passengers had a tough time.  We passed many people on motorcycles and scooters as it's a dream to carve up the curves on two wheels.  Makes me miss my Harley back home!

When we arrived in Pai, it was much more isolated than what we are used to in Chiang Mai.  It doesn't have as much of a city vibe as it does a small town vibe.  We walked along the main street for awhile looking for lunch and then made our way to where we were staying.  Our spot was a nice little modern cabin with great views of the mountains and we were close to a really cool temple and Buddha statue.

The town was full of foreigners (in fact I think I saw more foreigners than locals) and they mostly seemed to be around the ages of 18-24.  It was a younger crowd and it had a big hippie vibe to it as well.  We chatted with some other travelers and many people say they only planned to stay for a couple days but then ended up staying for a month or more.  I really enjoyed the serenity of the town but it wasn't quite my cup of tea.  However, we hit up a couple really cool bars and had some fun walking around.

We made the hike up to the Buddha and it was quite the trek! There were several staircases we had to summit before we even got to the one pictured above.  I really love the style and architecture of the buildings and staircases as they are very colorful and detailed.

Here is a view of Pai from the Buddha Statue.

It was a very peaceful place and many people brought incense to burn as they pray.  I reveled in the fact of how huge it is and how much effort it must have taken to build.  Scott and I found a shady place with benches that had a great view and we did our daily meditation there adding only further to the serenity of the environment.

We only planned to stay for the one night... and that's what we did.  We ended up coming back the next day as we just wanted a little day trip out of the city.  We hopped on the bus the next day for another dose of 280+ curves and then arrived back in Chiang Mai.  We stopped by Noi and A's restaurant for dinner, chatted with them about Pai and then made our way back. We decided to call it an early night so we could wake up at 6am to watch the Super Bowl.

Getting Ready for Vietnam

I can't believe that our time is already coming to a close here in Thailand but I'm excited for the next part of the journey. I'll be going to Hanoi, Vietnam for a month and Scott and I also booked a trip to Halong Bay which is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and from the pictures and personal testimonies I've seen/heard, it's astoundingly beautiful.  Vietnam is just a touch cheaper than Thailand so we booked ourselves some awesome looking rooms for quite cheap.  I can't wait!

We've been reading up on some spots to check out in Hanoi, what to eat, what to see and what beer is the best.  There are lots of conflicting stories so I guess we're just going to have to find out for ourselves! Oh darn...

Final Thoughts

As January has now come to a close, I hope that you are doing your best to live up to your expectations in this new year.  I've been hit or miss as of late so I'm trying to get myself in the right mindset every day.  That's all we can really ask of ourselves isn't it? As you are working to become your best self, here is some advice I received from my therapist: "Something is better than nothing." I always remember that when I feel hard-pressed to commit to my daily routine.  I'll start with just a little something and even if it doesn't lead to more, I'm glad that I've committed even just a little bit.  I hope that this mantra helps you as well.

Until next time, I hope you have a fantastic week!

Bye bye

Tony G